Gallery Hoppin' 4/28/09

Part of an artist's homework is "Gallery Hopping." Doing your due diligence, research, homework - however you label it, hitting the pavement serves several purposes. Before you submit work to a gallery, you have to make sure your work is right for that space - a gallery showing realistic cityscapes isn' t likely to be interested in your minimalist canvases painted black and covered with beeswax. Gallery Hopping helps in many other ways, but I'll save that for another post, today I wish to write about some recent shows I saw.


















First stop was to see the AIKO "Love Monster" show at Joshua Liner Gallery. AIKO, born in Tokyo and now residing in Brooklyn, was part of the group FAILE that did street art, wheatpasting their way through cities around the globe. Her work is obviously pop and influenced by street art, kawaii ("cute" in Japanese) culture, and "globalized depictions of female sexuality" mixing screens, stencils, and blowups of images (many from comic books) repeated throughout the show. There are many artists doing this type of work (Greg Gossel comes to mind) and it's eye candy and draws you in, yet in some ways the artists paint themselves into a corner and the works become a one-trick pony. My impression is that AIKO is aware of this compared to others, so it'll be interesting to watch how, and if, her work evolves.

Tony Shafrazi Gallery had a large show by Theodore Knobloch of Germany, his first solo in the US. Many of the paintings of are of a seaside town - boats, children playing, shacks, all painted realistically but somewhat deconstructed with large areas of color, taped straight edges mixed with loose brushstrokes and cropped composition. The show loses some steam compositionally with several paintings having an image (ladder, pole etc) going straight down the middle - clearly done intentionally, but to the detriment of the overall image.























Mike Cockrill showed his "Sentiment and Seduction" paintings at Kent Gallery ("Hatari" left and "Tag" on the right). First impression was of John Currin and Lisa Yuskavage influences, the slightly off-kilter, sexually-undertoned scenes of daily life. Snapshot like moments (not as photo-realistic as Martin Mull's or Eric Fischl's work) where someone or everyone's guard is down and there's some naughtiness afoot. The statement suggests he is exploring the "rich transition from the world of childhood fantasy to adult awareness in a manner that is both playfully innocent and sexually charged." "Flag Day" shows a girl scout, shirt unbuttoned and becoming aware of her own sexual prowess next to an oblivious boy (you know, girls develop quicker) whose hormones havent kicked in yet.
Cockrill grew up in an area of Virginia where most men worked for the CIA, FBI and State Department and secrets abounded, a state of mind that is present in these pieces. You really sense this in "Hatari" - notice the middle boy staring straight up the woman's dress and ya gotta love the Sinatra album on the floor next to the Hatari soundtrack.
Next: Portraits, Powhida and Pablo

Restaurant Week Part 2

SPICE MARKET

Located in the meat packing district at 403 W. 13th St (off 9th Ave), Spice Market is still a very popular destination. Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten has described the cuisine as "Asian street food" albeit with his own unique touches. You'll find standards and unusual items on the menu, and the restaurant itself,with an exotic Asian theme, is beautiful. An expansive space, dimly lit, with an upscale hipster crowd as well as plenty of well-heeled tourists and business folk. Old foodie friend, Steve, and I both started with a Cava Brut. In addition to the Rest Week menu we ordered Black Pepper Shrimp with sun-dried pineapple - well-seasoned and succulent. For apps, Steve got the Mushroom Congee which he described as "soothing", and unusual in that it contained no rice, just minced mushroom. An earthy, thick, rich dish. I got the Chicken Coconut Soup, a Thai staple, it was a good sized bowl and not too heavy on the tamarind, which can easily overpower this dish.

My entree was Red Curried Duck, an ample portion in a ceramic bowl. This was very good and filling, full of flavor - nothing radical or spectacular, very solid and satisfying. My glass of Fireblock Grenache (Australia) stood up well to the curry and gamey duck. Steve got Crispy Salt and Pepper Skate with Thai Basil and Lime. Again, something you can find in many Asian restaurants, and done to perfection here. He ordered a Singha Beer to accompany this dish which was a good pick. Jean Georges himself stopped by our table as he did with others, and having the head guy himself stop by was a big check in the plus column. As a former bar owner, I feel the personal touch by the owner goes a long way with customers.

Dessert consisted of Tahitian Von Kulfi, a mousse with minted orange and salted pistachio. Much like the dessert I had at Del Posto only a more Asian version - this was very good, but Del Posto's was extraordinary. Steve got the Thai Jewels and Fruits with crushed coconut ice. He said many Thai restaurants offer this, and this was very good, especially the ice. As we left, Jean Georges thanked us for coming and I told him about our meal at Artisanal (remember the 3 gnocchi that I ranted about in Pt 1?) and he said, "Oh, thees is not good!" and we added that we mention it because we were quite happy with our portions at Spice Market.

This is a lovely, stylish place, good food and great atmosphere. A bit expensive, but a hot spot to impress a date!


GOTHAM BAR & GRILL

Despite only eating here once before, GB&G is one of my favorite restaurants in NYC, so I made it a point to come here for Restaurant Week. They only offered lunch, and my friend had to bail at the last minute, so I ate at the bar. This was fine, but a great meal is so much better when in good company. So this is brief since I didnt take many notes and had my nose in a book. I started with smoked salmon, with dill and chive emulsion which was delicious and light. I also ordered a white wine but I didnt note the brand, knucklehead that I am!

For the meal I again went with salmon, this being organic and prepared with meyer lemon confit, white wine and a green peppercorn sauce. The sauce was not overpowering and complimented the fish, which was cooked to perfection. If memory serves they also had a goat cheese ravioli that I was tempted to get. For dessert I went with the namesake Gotham Chocolate Cake with a passion fruit sauce. This was a real treat for a chocolate lover, rich and sweet. I wish I took more notes, perhaps I was experiencing restaurant week burnout? Nonetheless, to me this Restaurant Week(s) goes in the memory banks of my time living in NY as a great experience enjoyed with friends, and sampling some of the finest cooking this great city has to offer. I highly recommend that next Restaurant Week, you pick out at least 2 places that you’ve never been to and go with a good friend or two...or three.

NYC Restaurant Week - Part 1

ARTISANAL: The first adjective that comes to mind when entering Artisanal Restaurant and Fromagerie is: pungent. This French bistro boasts over 250 cheeses, and the powerful aroma is a bit off-putting when you walk in for a meal. I chose to persevere, as this was the first destination for Restaurant Week (which is actually two weeks) in NY. For those unaware, this is the twice yearly event in which many restaurants have a special 3 course, prix fixe menu available for lunch and/or dinner, $24 for lunch and $35 for dinner. It gives diners a chance to go to restaurants that they might not otherwise be able to afford, and it give restaurants a chance to expose their skills to a new audience, one that will hopefully return. Reports vary, as some restaurants rise to the occasion, while others offer meager portions and not the greatest fare. I think it’s unreasonable to expect rack of lamb on Restaurant Week, so if you don’t go in with unrealistic expectations, you may have a wonderful dining experience. The ones who seem to dislike it a bit are the waitstaff, as people tend to tip based on the prix-fixe price rather than what the meal would actually have cost them, but hey, that’s kind of the point, isnt it - having a chance to eat there and not pay full price?? I’m sure it works out in the end due to volume, as most places are completely booked.

Last year I vowed to book a bunch of reservations at the next Restaurant Week, and luckily I have. I’ll be taking notes and will post my reviews here. First up is the aforementioned Artisanal, located at 2 Park Ave. off 32nd Street. Very high ceilings, many French cheese posters, and a friendly waitstaff (maybe too much as I caught our waiter flirting with my brother’s boyfriend). We started off with the Artisanal fondue as an appetizer, very tasty and not too rich, served with chunks of crusty bread. We shared a bottle of Chateau Pichon Saint Emilion, a rich bordeaux which matched up great with our dishes. For the first course, we had a choice of pumpkin soup, parmesan gnocchi or mesclun salad. The mesclun was a good portion served in a bowl, and the gnocchi was prepared with braised pork and root vegetables in a delicious brown sauce, however, there were only TWO gnocchi in there! TWO! I mean, it was tasty but this is not a high ticket item, and serving only two gnocchi is an embarassment. It was definitely a WTF moment. Entree selections were Beef Bourgignon served on a bed of creamy,cheesy polenta with glazed vegetables. The beef was tender and full of wine and seasonings. I was jealous that I didnt order it, as I got the Parsillade Crusted Cod with Fennel Marmalade and Caramelized Orange Vinaigrette. The cod crust was delicious, delicate and a bit of crunch but the piece was about 1-1/2 by 4 inches and maybe 3/4” thick. The fennel was braised and the sweet orange vinaigrette was an interesting match. The beef dish was a good portion, and I found myself reaching for the bread to fill up with my cod dish.
We each got one of the three dessert choices. Most interesting was the refreshing Fruit Soup with a scoop of coconut sorbet and pomegranates. I got the Fromages Du Jour, three slices of cheese, one mild and semi-firm, one a tangy goat cheese (I think) and the third a ripe blue cheese. Most popular as can be guessed is their wonderful cheesecake with pecan praline and some caramel sauce.
Overall, the food and wine were very good at Artisanal, the restaurant was well-lit, busy but not too loud, and service was good. One can argue that it was “only” $35 for the three courses, but I at least want to be relatively full (and not on bread) and for the most part they skimped on the portions, at times embarassingly so. Our bill was $187 (not including tip nor the $14 martini Pete had at the bar). Perhaps the non-Restaurant Week menu offers larger portions, but this is not an inexpensive bistro. Am I glad I ate here? Yes. Did this make me want to come back? Not really. Last year I ate at Mesa Grill during Restaurant Week, and it was such a great meal and dining experience that I went back shortly thereafter and bought a gift certificate for a friend who did some legal work for me. That is how a business benefits from Restaurant Week. Not to beat a dead horse, but for a coupla more gnocchi and some better portions, I might have left Artisanal feeling more appreciative and shown it the way I did at Mesa Grill. If you are a cheese lover, a fondue lover, are fond of good French bistro food and have some bucks to spend, then try Artisanal. Or stop in with a group and just enjoy a fondue and a good bottle of Bordeaux!

CRAFTBAR: #2 was lunch at Craftbar on Broadway between 19th and 20th. Simple, semi-elegant atmosphere, and we were seated side-by-side at a comfortable banquette for 2. Right off the bat, the menu was excellent. Plenty to choose from, and everything sounded fantastic. Ms. Kyle, former chef and current salesgalextraordinaire at Petrossian and I were ready to explore some of famed chef Tom Colicchio’s menu (he’s also a judge on Bravo’s Top Chef). We started with a glass of dry Cava Brut, and these salty spiced breadsticks that were awesome.
For appetizers we got Seared Calamari with Baby Arugala and Lemon Confit, cooked to perfection with a hint of citrus. The other app was Fried Oysters with Celery Root Remoulade. These oysters were perfect examples for Frying 101 - light, crisp, and not oily at all. Delicious. There must’ve been a dozen or more appetizer choices.
Our lunch entrees were difficult to pick from the wide selection, but we went with Sauteed Skate with Black Currants and Bacon and Brown Butter. Two portions of skate (I think they were pan fried) - very tasty, subtle taste of brown butter on a bed of sauteed cabbage. One piece was a overcooked on one end, but THAT is the only complaint about the entire meal! The other dish was Braised Short Ribs over Potato and Celery Puree, the rib meat was succulent and tender and the puree was creamy, light and had lots of potato flavor. The cooking was dead on, this was great. We almost ordered the Pork Belly with Red Cabbage and Spaetzle, mainly from a curiosity standpoint - I’m sure it’s great, too.
For dessert I got the Crispy Chocolate Cake with Pistachio Ice Cream. The cake came wrapped in a light pastry shell, about 2.5 inches in diameter, and the cake was very rich. Reminded me of a molten chocolate cake. The pistachio ice cream was very fresh, right out of the ice cream maker! Creamy, and not at all like the green pistachio ice cream you get at the ice cream shop. Kyle got the cheese plate with 3 cheeses - Bucheron (goat-France), Cabrales (cow/sheep-Spain), and Plave (cow-Italy).
Cappucino and tea brought the bill to 81.43. In addition to the friendly and efficient service, we were each given a $10 gift certificate! Now THAT is how you make the most of Restaurant Week from a business stanpoint - great menu, delicious food, decent portions, and an added incentive to get the customer to return. Highly recommended.

DEL POSTO: Del Posto is owned by two huge names in the Italian restaurant biz, Mario Batali and Lydia Bastianich. Located on 85 Tenth Ave and 16th Street, where many giant-sized restaurants, like Morimoto, reside. An expansive space, when you walk in there is a dining area to the right and the bar and more tables to the left, and dead center is a staircase leading downstairs to walls of glass and wood wine storage. This is available for private affairs, but when we (we being college chum Paul and I)walked down the staff was dining and giving us the “why are you here?” look. Paul’s a very successful self-employed graphic designer, husband and father of four, so he doesnt have much opportunity to go out like this. It’s great because his enthusiasm level is always high for these special occasions, plus he’s just good company. I got a glass of Moscato d’Asto prosecco and Paul got an Italian white. Paul started with the Pasta Fagiolo soup. It had a hint of rosemary that accented the flavor perfectly, it was mostly broth with a few cannelini beans and extra virgin olive oil. That had to be Lydia’s touch, if you ever see her show, she is HEAVY with the olive oil. I got the Affatati Misti, a selection of house cured meats and dry aged sausages with bruschetta. Three meats, one slice each, two pieces of prosciutto and a very small piece of crusty bruschetta. Good, but kind of a small portion.

For mains I got the Pork Loin with artichokes, fennel and peppercorns. Omigod! The pork was juicy and tender, lightly crusted with the pepper and spices - excellent. Paul got the Garganelli Verde, quill shaped spinach pasta with Mario’s favorite Bolognese sauce. Quite tasty, the pasta was light and fresh and not heavy on the sauce.

For dessert we had the Sheepsmilk Yogurt Cheesecake, with kaffir lime leaf and coconut gelato plus something else that I can’t read in my notes! Oops! I got the Semifreddo di Torone, and this was unique and full of flavors. Served in a short glass, it had siciilian pistachios, blood orange and moscato d’asti meringue. Layered, and the various textures of the frothy meringue and other ingredients was unlike any dessert I’ve had before. If you go to Del Posto and it’s on the menu, definitely order it. Our waitress was great, didnt rush us and took time to chat with us for awhile. She gave us each a glass of dessert wine on the house, which was a very nice touch. My amigo was inquiring as he wanted to take his wife here for dinner sometime, and apparently there are two menus that alot of people arent aware of. I’m a bit restauranted-out so I can’t remember the particulars, but it sounded like the same food but served on one side of the restaurant or something like that, and less expensive. If you call for reservations, inquire about this, or check out the website DelPosto.com, there might be info there. Del Posto has nice atmosphere, roomy, not loud and an excellent waitstaff, and I recommend it for a special date or business meal. Could get pricey, and I don’t know what their non-Restaurant Week portions are like, although I’m sure they’re more generous. Mario being Mario you know there will be unusual ingredients and surprises (in a good way) and Lydia does solid Italian cooking with a homey touch. If you are a wine enthusiast, you’ll appreciate the selection if Italian wines here.

My NY "Free" Day!

Yesterday morning the cell rings and it's Martin, a friend I've known since we met the very first day of college in 1981. Martin just left his job of 15+ years to pursue the freelance life, and lucky for him (and me) we make our schedules because a friend of his gave him 2 tickets to the Yankees/Tigers game!! FREE!! Game 2 had been rained out the night before and this was an afternoon makeup game. "Hells yeah!" I replied when he asked me if Iwanted to join him. It was gorgeous and sunny, but cold, and luckily I layered the clothes - it felt like a 20 degree difference between sitting in the sun and sitting in the shade where we were. I never sat in the bleachers before, and it's a different breed of fan there. For starters, there's no alcohol allowed in the bleachers. Everyone seems to know eachother. Lots of cops. And lots of abuse to the opposing team's outfielders. But hey, the best part of being at a live game is the crowd, and these bleacher bums really get into it. The funniest was when they'd play the fanfare to yell "Charge!", this guy would yell in a raspy, deep, New York accent-ed voice, "Chahahahahahge!"

We were right behind Bobby Abreu, and unfortunately the Yanks lost 4-3. But I love going to Yankee Stadium, and I have mixed feelings about the new stadium. When I go to Yankee Stadium, it's the history that gets you. You sit and realize that the field you're looking at was played upon by the Babe, Gehrig, DiMaggio, Mickey, Yogi, Reggie, Thurman, Murcer, Mattingly and the amazing rosters of the past 10+ years. OK, the new stadium will be "nicer" and have more luxury boxes and maybe more food and family oriented stuff, but dammit, I like the grittiness! Oh well, you can't stop "progress". One more Yankee note: I think the most overlooked player on this team is Jorge Posada, my favorite. A-Rod gets the press and the big bucks, Jeter has the skills and the looks, and so many others get more media attention, but Posada is Mr. Consistent. I'm not enough of a sports fan to be able to rattle off stats, but Posada always gets the clutch hit or homer, never causes waves - he'd be a huge star on another team but this team has so many stars he gets a bit lost in the shuffle.

OK, so this is about my NY Free Day. I get home from the game and checked email and got a free screening pass for the movie "Infamous" about Truman Capote. It's exactly like the last movie about him starring Philip Seymour Hoffman, "Capote". This stars Toby Jones and directed by Douglas McGrath. Apparently this film was in the works for some time and sat on the shelf for a bit. Perry Smith was originally to be played by Mark Wahlberg, then replaced by Mark Ruffalo in 04 and finally by Daniel Craig who did a great job. Michelle Pfeiffer was originally to play Slim Keith but was replaced in 05 by Hope Davis. Get this cast: Jeff Daniels, Sigourney Weaver, Isabella Rossolini, Peter Bogdonovich, and Sandra Bullock. Much different in tone from the brooding, sometimes plodding "Capote", Jones' Capote is much more flamboyant than Hoffman's, from what I remember of Truman Capote on talk shows and such, more true. "Infamous" had plenty of humorous moments and focused alot on his gossipy relationships with NY high society. There was an awful lot of liberty taken here and the film had a disclaimer at the end. McGrath employed the use of fake talking head interviews with the other characters, and I don't know how much was scripted and how much was taken from actual statements. Interesting, because the film talks about how Capote was developing a new style of reportage, that being using the techniques of a novel to report non-fiction, and here we have a film that is doing the same thing. Daniel Craig's Perry Smith was deeper and explored more here than in Capote. In that film the stance is that Perry wasn't very bright and Capote simply used him for the book. "Infamous" delves more into their relationship, including a kiss and confession of mutual feelings which may or may not have happened - - did Capote ever admit they kissed or is this supposition based on the rumor that they had developed real feelings for eachother? I'll be curious to see the reviews and to learn more about what was "real" and what wasnt in this movie. If you're not annoyed by the Greek chorus faux interviews, it is an entertaining movie with a very fine performance by Toby Jones. How odd would it be to have 2 actors win Best Actor for portraying the same character? My pick, though, is Forrest Whitaker as Idi Amin in "The Last King of Scotland", which I highly recommend! Watching Jones as Capote preening in long scarves and fur coats in rural Kansas at that time was a riot, and the supporting cast make this movie worth seeing.

Even better, I saw it (and a Yankees play-off game) for FREE - all in one great New York day!